The Giza Plateau (Cairo)
"From atop these pyramids, forty centuries look down
upon you."
-- Napoleon Bonaparte to his soldiers before the Battle of
Giza, 1798
Though the three Great Pyramids are the most famous and prominent
monuments at Giza, the site has actually been a Necropolis
almost since the beginning of Pharaonic Egypt. A tomb just
on the outskirts of the Giza site dates from the reign of
the First Dynasty Pharaoh Wadj, and jar sealings discovered
in a tomb in the southern part of Giza mention the Second
Dynasty Pharaoh Ninetjer. But it was the Fourth Dynasty Pharaoh
Khufu who placed Giza forever at the heart of funerary devotion,
a city of the dead that dwarfed the cities of the living nearby.
His pyramid, the largest of all the pyramids in Egypt (though
it should be noted that it surpasses the Red Pyramid of his
father Senefru by only ten meters) dominates the sandy plain.
On its southwest diagonal is the pyramid of his son Khephren.
Although it is smaller, a steeper angle results in the illusion
that they are the same size. In fact, Kephren's pyramid appears
taller since it is on higher ground. The notion that this
was done on purpose to out-do his father is without question.
As it occupies the central point, has the illusion of greater
size, and still has some of its casing stones intact, it is
frequently misreferred to as the Great Pyramid, something
that would no doubt please Khephren were he to know about
it.
Further along the southwest diagonal is the smallest of the
three, the pyramid of Khephren's son, Menkaure. It is also
the most unusual. First of all, it is not entirely limestone.
The uppermost portions are brick, much like the Black and
White Pyramids at Dahshur, though separated from them by several
centuries. One theory is that Menkaure died before his pyramid
could be completed, and the remaining construction was hastily
done to finish in time for the burial. It is also not along
the diagonal line that runs through the Great Pyramid and
the Second Pyramid, but instead is nearly a hundred meters
to the southeast. This error, if error it is, is of a magnitude
not in keeping with the mathematical skill known to have been
possessed by the ancient Egyptians. However, an idea has emerged
in the last few years that the three large pyramids of Giza
are actually meant to be in an alignment resembling that of
the three "belt" stars in the constellation Orion:
Alnitak, Alnilam, and Mintaka. This theory is largely discounted
by the majority of Egyptologists, but some do believe it is
a point to ponder.
Giza can be subdivided into two groupings of monuments, clearly
defined and separated by a wadi. The larger grouping consists
of the three "Great" pyramids of Khufu, Khephren,
and Menkaure; the Sphinx, the pyramids of the queens, attendant
temples and outbuildings, and the private mastabas of the
nobility. The second grouping, located on the ridge to the
southeast, contains a number of private tombs of citizens
of various classes. While the majority of the monuments of
the larger grouping are made from limestone that was quarried
and transported to the site, the tombs of the smaller grouping
are simply carved out of the native living rock.
All three pyramids stand empty, possibly plundered during
the political unrest that ended the Old Kingdom when the monarchy
collapsed. Yet there are the occasional surprises. Airtight
pits along the southern and eastern walls of Khufu's pyramid
are believed to contain boats (not small ritual boats, but
fully-functional funerary barges with 40-ton displacements,
one such was excavated in 1954); and most recently, evidence
has been found of a tunnel linking a hidden chamber within
the Great Pyramid with a previously unknown chamber beneath
the Sphinx. What treasures and discoveries lie within these
areas remains to be seen, but it is hoped that the wait will
not be long.
The advantages of Giza for a burial site are numerous, and
it is fairly easy to see why it was chosen. It is high and
flat ground overlooking everything. Any monument placed there
would be seen from far away, especially if traveling via the
Nile. It also has a ready supply of limestone on-site, eliminating
the need to transport the blocks over a protracted distance.
Since around the Fifth Century BC and up until recently stone
from the monuments was taken and used to build buildings in
nearby Cairo. First the polished white limestone "casing"
was taken, then the softer core stones. Many of Cairo's oldest
buildings are built partly from stones from the pyramids.
This destruction continued well into the Nineteenth Century
until preservation efforts and a resurgence of national pride
put a stop to it. It is believed that had the pyramids not
been vandalized, that they would still remain to this day
much as they were when they were built. As the saying goes,
"Man fears Time, but Time fears the Pyramids."
Exactly how big Giza is may never be known. Excavations have
continued to find new tombs and artifacts since Bezoni, Caviglia,
Perring, and Vyse began the first systematic study of Giza
in the early 1800s. It has been explored and excavated more
thoroughly than any other site in Egypt, possibly more than
any other site in the world, yet no one believes it is anywhere
near completion.
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The Sphinx (Cairo)
If the Pyramids of Giza are the most famous landmark in the
world, then the Sphinx is the most famous fictional animal.
A lion's body with a man's head, the mythical creature was
the symbol of fear and awesome power in ancient Egypt. Its
name has been interpreted as, "The Wonderful One",
"The Terrible One", "The Father of Terror",
"The Living Statue", and "Horus of the Horizon."
Egyptian tradition holds that the face of the Sphinx is the
image of Khafre (Chephren). But archæologists believe
it does not represent the form of a great leader. Rather,
it is a mythical creature whose job is to guard the bodies
of the dead in the cemeteries surrounding the Giza pyramid
complex. This theory is supported in part because it was built
more than 2,600 years before Khafre's rule.
Unlike the nearby pyramids of Giza, the Sphinx
was carved largely from a natural limestone outcropping by
a civilization that has long since vanished. It is 190 feet
long, and 66 feet tall. On many picture postcards, the Sphinx's
paws seem to be too big. In fact, they are in proportion to
the rest of the body, if you look at it from where it was
intended to be seen -- the bottom of the valley below, where
those who created the creature, and presumably worshipped
it, would look up to see the statue watching over them.
One thing the Sphinx illustrates very well
is the shifting nature of its environment. It has been repeatedly
covered up by the desert then revealed either through the
efforts of man or the unpredictable forces of nature. Even
the ancient Egyptians had to adapt, building an adjoining
altar on top of another that had been swallowed by the sand.
The ancient Greeks would come to this place and marvel at
the half-man, half-beast resting in the desert. In fact, it
was they who christened it the "Sphinx," naming
it after a mythical winged creature in their own culture.
Evidence of Greek life in the area can be found in a bit of
ancient graffiti scratched into the paws of the Sphinx --
it is a poem of peace. Later, the Romans would build a stairway
and a ramp over both altars after they had vanished under
the sands of time. In 1816, a French expedition uncovered
part of the limestone monster, but only managed to dig away
at the rear portion because of the shifting sand. Then in
1925 yet another expedition managed to clear the front part
of the Sphinx, revealing its true form. It was all these layers
of buildings underneath the sand that has given rise to the
myths of hidden chambers and buried treasures in the desert.
Those rumors led to fortune-seekers burrowing
into the monument. Since it was first uncovered, the Sphinx
has been repeatedly patched and repaired over more than 3,000
years. In fact, the first recorded patch-up job was ordered
by Pharaoh Tutmosis IV when he was just a prince about 1500
BC. Some jobs were of a better quality than others. A restoration
project started in 1990 and lasting seven years used more
than 100,000 stones to restore the Sphinx's body, but the
rising Nile water table continues to wreak havoc on the monument.
It seems there are as many rumors surrounding
what happened to the Sphinx's nose and beard than there are
theories about who built it and why. One popular theory is
that Napoleon's French solders shot it off because he considered
it a threat to his power. Another version of this tale has
Turkish soldiers joining in for target practice. One of these
older theories has a Muslim Fatmid personally taking an axe
to the Sphinx between 969 and 1071 because he thought it was
a symbol of a pagan religion. Another puts the loss of the
nose at about 1300 AD. There is one fact, however -- part
of the Sphinx's beard was recovered from the sand during excavation
and is now in the British Museum in London.
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Philae
South of the city of Aswan lies the beautiful temple complex
of Philae (pronounced "feel-i"). Its main temple
was dedicated to the goddess Isis and its construction was
undertaken during the third century B.C. Philae was the last
bastion of ancient Egyptian religion and hieroglyphic usage.
It is also a superb example of threatened cultural heritage
being saved in the face of modern civilization's march to
change the environment.
The island of Philae and its temples came under threat at
the turn of the century when the British erected the Aswan
Dam at the First Cataract. Philae began to spend some of its
time beneath the backed-up flood waters of the Nile. The Dam
was progressively raised in the following decades, but the
final nail in the coffin for the island of Philae came with
the construction of the Aswan High Dam in the 1960s. The temples
were destined to disappear forever beneath the river's waters.
Fortunately, Philae was saved from drowning. In 1977, a coffer
dam was constructed around the temples and the water was pumped
out. Then the temples were carefully dismantled with every
block assigned a number and its position noted. A nearby higher
island called Agilkai was modified to resemble Philae and
the temples were reassembled. In 1980, Philae was once again
opened to the public.
If time permits, a night visit for the Sound and Light Show
is very worthwhile as the temples look stunning under floodlights.
Shows are presented in English, French, German, Italian, Japanese,
Spanish and Arabic. The language and time schedule should
be checked before going.
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Luxor
Homer's Hundred-gated Thebes, is about 500 Km south of Cairo
and contains a vast conglomeration of ancient monuments: the
Temples of Amon at Karnak, colossal statues, obelisks, halls
a 'son et lumiere' show at Giza, the Valley of the Queens
and the Valley of the Kings, where 64 of the Pharoahs are
depicted in an enormous relief hewn from the rock.
The other temples, tombs and monuments are
equally awe-inspiring. Since 1988, visitors have had the opportunity
to view these monuments from a hot air balloon.
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